Red Hat Aunty Char Koay Teow Lorong Selamat

On Lorong Selamat, the 'Red Hat Aunty' fries one of George Town's most talked-about plates of char koay teow from a cart in front of Heng Huat Cafe, instantly recognisable in her red beret. She cooks small batches over a charcoal-boosted flame for maximum wok hei, and each plate comes with three big prawns, egg and crunchy bean sprouts. She has a famously no-nonsense reputation that is half the experience — expect a wait, and note it is a premium plate by hawker standards.